Since then, it’s been countless times that I have had to dig for it to help somebody on the various forums that ask how to do it, so I decided to just post it on my forum, this way I know how to find it in a Hurry .. this is Ash’s (Ashalak ) guide, not mine.

Firstly you need to remove your motors and starting assembly from underneath the starter box, this is easily done by removing the 3 screws as shown:

Once removed you will note that there is actually a second set of three holes on the underside of the starter motor assembly, you need to re-attach the starter motor assembly with the three alternative three mounting holes. This moves the motor assembly more into the centre line of the starter box which helps align the starter wheel much more accurately with the centrally mounted engine in the 8T.

Next we move on to adjusting the guides, first of all the front guide needs to be positioned all the way down toward the edge of the box, and then tighten up the two screws securing the bracket to the lid:

For the rear guide we need to completely remove it in order to remove some material from the underside, this is best achieved with either a very sharp hobby knife or my personal favourite method – The Dremel! The section which we need to remove is the small plastic lug on the underside of the guide, you need to remove this lug entirely ensuring that you make this area entirely flat in relation to the rest of the guide:

Finally you can re-attach the rear guide onto the starter box lid, however you are only required to mount the inner most securing lug on the underside of the lid. Don’t forget to put the nuts in on the underside of the guide for the mounting pegs as you will be required to remove the guide completely again to do so. With the rear guide secured with only one lug slide the guide all the way back and align the whole in the top guide, with the hole in the rear switch mechanism on the starter box. Rather than having an individual screw for securing the lid to the mounting switch, we need to use a slightly longer screw to mount through the rear hole in the guide and into the hole in the switch mechanism:

The final step is simply adjusting the front and rear mounting pegs on the guides in order to secure the chassis. You are also able to move the complete starter motor assembly forward or backwards in relation to the opening in the chassis, this is easily done be loosening off the three screws shown in the first step and positioning the wheel so that it is central with the flywheel opening. Here is what everything should look like when setup correctly:

Hope this helped!

it sure did

Since George is a bit inexperienced, I suspected perhaps he forgot to put a collet in, I was further sure of that when he seems not to know what a collet is ..

To avoid damaging the engine, I asked him to send it to me and i’d take a look, well, it just arrived today…

Here is the beast, it’s quite a large engine, the Hong Nor RTR’s comes with them by default .. I can only imagine how insane a CR Buggy must be with one of those, anyway, back to the topic on hand.

You can definitely see how tight the flywheel is to the engine, I am at this point 99% sure the collet is missing (or is just way to small), I noticed George had done some superficial damage to the flywheel (some mole grips perhaps) .. I wanted to avoid doing further damage to it, so it was time to pull out the big gun … the piston locker

Now, I am ashamed to say so, but I actually never used one of them before, so I puled one off the shelf, it’s a good toll to have in my pitbox anyway ..

For those who dont know, this is how it works, you screw it into your glowplug socket, the protrusion on it will sit nicely on top of your piston head, preventing it from traveling upwards, therefore locking the piston and allowing you to tight or un-tight a flywheel with no need to use any mole grips or anything else on the flywheel itself, or in this case, since the flywheel had no grip, be able to remove the nut .. period.

I must say, I was pleasantly surprised at how easy having the piston locker makes the whole ordeal ..

And voila .. once the flywheel was out .. the problem was quite visible .. indeed there was no collet

A whopping £2.99 later, and a nice new Hong Nor Collet (or taper cone as some call it) was in place

And there you have it, the flywheel is safely tight in place, and a nice gap shows between it and the engine, it turns just as it should … the whole repair costed exactly £2.99 and took 15 minutes … no sign of any damage to the engine, and the scrapes George did on the flywheel are just cosmetic .. in a few weeks of using it with the starter box, you wont seem them anymore

What did I learn from this ordeal ?, stop busting your behind with zip ties on the top of the piston or mole grips on the flywheel, definitely get a piston or crankshaft locker .. well worth it.

So I try it on the CB screw .. and sure enough … it fits !!!

I ended up by only using 2 .. but now it’s PERFECT !!! .. it’s ultra-smooth and no more worries of the CB freezing up

now if I could only remember what those shims are …….

Technorati Tags: 8IGHT-T, 8T, Fioroni, RC

Also the CB temperatures go quite high, so I was logging for a vented CB instead.

After allot of reading, I decided to try the Fioroni Turbo sliding clutch .. it just looks so simple and hassle free

So I bought the following:

• FIO-OT-FR51 Fioroni Turbo Sliding Clutch Flywheel + Nut
• FIO-OT-FR52 Fioroni Carbon (Black) Turbo Sliding Clutch + Clutch Shim
• FIO-OT-FR36 Fioroni Replacement Sliding Clutch Springs (6)
• ENA-K6501-13 K Factory 13T HD 1/8th Vented Clutch Bell

Also got a King Headz 8/8T extended motor mount.

So first things first, the CB came undone on the last race, so time to get it out

And a record this time, both bearings are gone, probably when one failed, the CB moved and killed the other one …

I kept the 8T collet, and proceeded to install the flywheel … nothing exciting there, but look how different it looks …

This is how the shoes look, it’s a very simple design, also, extremely easy to install (and quick .. a major plus if one is in a hurry between heats)

I used the 3 springs, so the clutch engages at higher RPM .. which means a faster sprint out of the starting line, I just hope it wont be too much of a push coming out of the corners, but we shall see, it’s uber-easy to remove a spring if I need it anyway

And here it is on the flywheel .. no messing around with clutch tools and funky springs .. Just slide it in and you done.

The large shim goes here

And last, the vented 13T clutchbell … it looks really nice …

Here I an into some problems … the shaft of the V-Spec is not long enough, so it recesses into the front bearing by a little over 1MM, so every time I tighten the CB screw, the whole CB would frozen .. after asking aroudn fro some help, it was evident I needed a shaft extension, the screw that comes with the 8T clutch does have a recessed washer with a small extension, but it was not enough .. I took the whole thing apart and tighten the flywheel as much as I could, that gave me another 1/2 MM or so, which was enough to make the 8T C B screw/washer work .. but I am not yet 100% happy, I am trying to find a shim that is the same size as the shaft to work as an extender.

And yes, I do have the OFNA Clutch/Nut shim kit .. but the shaft extenders there are too big, it would need allot of shimming and probably hit the fuel thank anyway.

But regardless, it works for now, and sure enough it spins nicely.

Last step was to setup the King Headz engine mount

I did set the engine blocks on the reverse, to push the engine forward 2MM .. that was enough to make this CB line up nicely with the spur gear

And that’s it … now I need to clean the engine (yes, it is dirty .. I know) … and I will test the whole setup next week at SpeedWay RC track …

I am really excited over this setup .. I just love the ease of maintenance, I might also try the teflon/glass shoes (FIO-OT-FR53) if the carbon ones prove too aggressive .. we shall see ..

Technorati Tags: 8IGHT-T, 8T, Fioroni, LST2, RC